Reef Angel Forum

I used the wizard and the only screen I see is in the menus to clear a leak. Is there a main screen notification as well?

Yes just the hub with nothing else... Its a random flicker, like a short or loose connection.

No the cable worked fine... I tested the cable to make sure it was not the problem. The hub itself is still a problem. Sorry for the confusion

Any thoughts of what to try next Roberto?

If I wiggle the cable. I get more flicker... I then reused the cable with my dimmer and it worked fine.

I have the RedSea max retro fit kit... I think the heat sink is about 6 by 12 with 27 LEDs on it

It flickering like a bad power connection... No way for water to get into the case as all of the expansion hubs and relay are actually above water and the tank velcroed to the top of a cabinet. I can send pictures if you like.

You are welcome... I intend on making the noted changes some time this year as well as put out the Windows 8 app... Before Christmas I hope.

I actually have it stable. The heatsink itself gets up to 127 degrees (Probe has direct contact to heat sink) the air blown off the heat sink is 90 degrees. In the end, it was a bad LED that had a bad joint

I bought the expansion hub a few months back and it had been working just fine. This morning anything not connected to it did not work (Dimmer and Sal). I removed the Expansion hub and just plugged in the dimmer and the dimmer worked fine. Any advice on what I can do here?

desktop gadgets aren't really supported anymore and is not the Microsoft direction. I think the tile is the next best thing.

P stands for Portal, C stands for Controller. They tell you were the data is coming from. It will always try to default to the controller, unless one is not specified or unavailable

OH yes heat dissipation is fine. I measure only 100 F on the heat sink

1 amp and they are designed for 1.3 amps.

Adequate dissipation... I think so My Cool White XT-E are fine
RapidLED is the supplier.

For about a month now, I have had LEDs randomly die out. I am using LDD drivers 1000hw to be specific. It is always a different LED, when I test them all I find the bad LED, and I swap it out and its fine for an hour or a day. Then randomly all the Royal Blues are out. I check it and sure enough one...

That did it... What did the jumper do?

I2CScanner ready! starting scanning of I2C bus from 1 to 128... addr: 1 addr: 2 addr: 3 addr: 4 addr: 5 addr: 6 addr: 7 addr: 8 addr: 9 addr: A addr: B addr: C addr: D addr: E addr: F addr: 10 addr: 11 addr: 12 addr: 13 addr: 14 addr: 15 addr: 16 addr: 17 addr: 18 addr: 19 addr: 1A addr: 1B addr: 1C...

I just checked it and I am getting zero volts out of each channel ( 0 - 5 ). To make sure my voltmeter was working, I then checked the ATO ports where I got 4.75 volts. So what am I doing wrong to only get zero volts?

I will have to check when I get back into work on Tuesday.

Its 100 as it should be.

Isn't this the dimming expansion code? //driver control if (lightOverHeat) { ReefAngel.PWM.SetChannel(0, 0); ReefAngel.PWM.SetChannel(1, 0); ReefAngel.Relay.Off( Port5 ); } else { ReefAngel.PWM.Channel0PWMSlope(); ReefAngel.PWM.Channel1PWMSlope(60); ReefAngel.Relay.On( Port5 ); }

Oh and the code worked fine with my older meanwell drivers.

ReefAngel.ActinicLights( Port5 ); ReefAngel.MoonLights( Port4 ); ReefAngel.PWM.DaylightPWMSlope(); ReefAngel.PWM.ActinicPWMSlope( 60 ); //Moon output moonPWM = Moon.MoonPWM(0, 20); if (moonPWM >= 1) { ReefAngel.Relay.On( Port3 ); } else { ReefAngel.Relay.Off( Port3 ); } //light temp int lightTemp =...

I went ahead and purchased the Dimmer module. I opened it up and put in the 5 vdc jumpers. I wired ther LDD white wire to the dimmer and the negative or ground of the DImmer module to the negative VOut on the power supply and the lights don't turn on at all. If I disconnect the white wire from the d...

SO I have a 48v power supply for my LLD Drivers. I was thinking of getting a 350 ma LDD Driver for 4 of my LEDs. I Don't remember but can I use the 48 V power supply or do I need a ~12V power supply? I am trying to jog my brain if the LDD Constant Current Drivers will limit things in the proper way ...

I know the ground from the RA ATO port was connected to the -Vout on the power supply. I was trying to use Roberto's suggestion of having using the ATO as a PWM 5vdc signal using the code shown in earlier in this thread, but the lights would just stay dark.

Doesn't work... Only thing that happens is that the lights go out. Hopefully the dimmer module I just purchased will solve this?

Sigh... it didn't seem to work. I put those two lines you mentioned before the "interface" method. This is what I did: //ATO PWM output pinMode(lowATOPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(highATOPin, OUTPUT); analogWrite(lowATOPin, ReefAngel.PWM.GetActinicValue() * 2.55); analogWrite(highATOPin, ReefAnge...

I already ordered two 1000ma Steve... Thanks for the offer. I ordered the PWM Expansion Module, because it appears that is the only way people are having success... I would though hope that Roberto will add the ability to modify the voltage out of the relay pack PWM outputs in the future.