Lee's Next Project

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Posts: 5335
Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:42 am
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 1:26 pm
So another vacation, 12 day's of leaving my tank completely unattended and automated with my RA.

Time to get ready for the big switchover. If all goes as expected, I will be starting tomorrow afternoon.

I will be mounting the RA*, my MP40 drivers, and the RF adapter to the door of my stand (currently pretty much everything is on that door). I will be mounting the relay expansion, relay bars, dimming, salinity, water level, power strips, and a few other devices to a pegboard. I will be using a combination of zip ties, elastic cording and pegboard hooks to make it all work. I've no idea how it will turn out. I'm still up in the air how the peg board will be situated at the back of the tank, and seriously considering how I could also mount the RA* and the MP40 drivers somewhere in the back as well. I'm hoping the stand that I got to hold the ATO reservoir will be strong enough or can be modified with some minor reinforcement. All the unknowns... always the fun part :)

Anyway, wish me luck.
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Posts: 2627
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:20 pm
Location: Illinois
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 6:10 pm
good luck!


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Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:08 am
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:14 pm
Well, I started typing out a response last night as I was quickly crashing ~5am. Anyway, even though I didn't post it, I did catch my second wind. It was grueling. I kept the tank running until around 9am on just the return pump. Everything is back together now. I've been making code changes through the web wizard all day, getting things tweaked as they should be. I'm pooped though. A few things, I would hope have improved but have not... always had some stray voltage affecting pH. It seems it's a bit worse now. Also, was hoping the salinity probe would have improved, but seeing the same behavior with a new probe and now with everything re-installed. Water level downstairs is being wonky, but I'm sure I'll get that straightened up soon. Still a bit of tweaks to be done. I'll post some pictures soon.
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Posts: 5335
Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:42 am
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:16 pm
Image ImageImageImageImage I had to fabricate that because I didnt have enough room with the mp40 drivers. Thats just a pvc plastic sheet cut to fit the profile of the gap between the wall and stand. i should have mounted it a little lower. Image Everything tucked neatly behind the stand. Its a pain to get to and if I need to take any modules off it will be a pain putting it back on. But nothing like the pain I had before if I needed to get at an outlet.
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Posts: 5335
Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:42 am
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:16 pm
The best part is just the head unit on my door.
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Posts: 2627
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:20 pm
Location: Illinois
PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 6:56 am
nice. crazy setup and wire mess initially. :smile:
you'll get things figured out once you get some rest.


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Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:08 am
PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:46 am
Some really cool features I have now. D-link smart plug attached to the GL-MT300N. The GL-MT300N is a wireless router running OpenWRT (basically a tiny linux box). I can ssh to this device, run minicom to watch the serial port and see what the RA is spitting out. I can also avrdude a binary if I want to update the firmware without the web wizard. I've got a cron job on the unit that looks in a folder for new firmwares and a shell script on my mac when I'm done compiling with Arduino to upload the file. It's a pretty smooth process :)

Did I mention how cool it looks with just this on the door :)
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Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:42 am
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:17 pm
So, things have been running smoothly for the past few days. I had an issue with my lights because I put the labels on them backward and swapped the plugs without changing the code when I should have just changed the labels. The pH seems to be tied to a bad float switch. It dropped to 1.0 after pulling the ato high out the water leaving atolow in. If I took both out it was fine. i guess I have to change the low one. The other good news is I think the salinity has seemed to be impacted so we will see soon. There does seem to be an issue, maybe with the temp conversion, but as soon as I calibrate, the value is at 33 instead of 35.

Also, the water level seems to have stabilized as well for my channels 1&2, but I still have an issue with channel 3 (RO 5gl bucket). I'm monitoring the serial and the values being read by the module seem good. Something is happening in the conversion so I'll be trying to see what is breaking there.

A lot of the confusion I was having with switches btw was caused by a bug. The star has a 3rd input and the function I use to switch the behavior of the relays in software was applied to the 3rd input (AlarmInput) in addition to LowATO. That drove me insane for half a night.

Anyway close to closing all the gaps. Nothing's dead yet so it's definitely a success.

Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:08 am
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:18 pm
Ok, salinity calibration seems to be skipping setting the temperature. When I checked the memory location it was set to 750 which is 75 degrees. I set it to 80.6 which is what it was at when I calibrated and now the value is 34.7. I'll open an issue for that, but won't be focusing on that at the moment :)

Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:08 am
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:39 pm
Ok, found the issue with my 3rd water level sensor:

See if you can spot the issue :)

Code: Select all
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel1Min,387);
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel2Min,387);
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel3Min,621);
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel1Max,2200);
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel2Max,2325);
  memory_write_int(Mem_I_WaterLevel2Max,1923);


For some reason to be determined, the star is not updating the calibration values over to the cloud hub. So in the meantime, I'm setting it manually based on the values I recorded.
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