Reef Angel Forum

Hi guys

I would like to share with you all a float switch bracket that I made to use with RA. The idea was to build something usefull, flexible and reliable, something that would not fall into water easily.

I made this 3D project using TinkerCad (https://tinkercad.com/) and printed it using a local printer that I found using 3dHub service (http://www.3dhubs.com). It costed 10 bucks, and we can use other online services like shapeways, sculpteo, etc

It was designed for the two pieces to be fixed in each other and in the aquarium glass using plastic screws.









Of course there are alternatives (ReefKeeper Float Switch, for instance).. but it was expensive to me (cost + shipment) and it not fit my display properly.

Next step is to create a proper brancket for Water Level's pipe.


The 3D project is attached.

Rafa

Very cool! Not sure why you have two fins on the top and how it was stay on the rim. Do you have a picture of it installed?

I plan to use the fins to hold it using plastic screws and be able to adjust.

Thats the kind of display that I have




I dont have a picture using it yet.. but I post ASAP.

Rafa

Nice work. Very Clean.

What I did for my ATO float valves and Water Level Senor Pipes is the following.

The WaterLevel Pipe does not move. I have it pretty secure.

I drilled out the stop on a 1/2" PVC T and then cut a slit in it the width of my sump acrylic.
Slipped the 1/2" tube thru there and have it resting against the bottom.





For the ATO switches.

Slot an Elbow.
Put in a length of pipe including an end cap or plug (I haven't tried a plug yet) to get you close to the water level you want the float switch at.
Drill a hole in the end cap big enough for the stem of the float switch.
Feed the wire and stem of the float switch through the hole, pipe and out the end cap.
Don't forget to put the nut on the stem of the float switch.

What I actually did was drill the hole for the float switch stem a bit smaller then the stem and then found a screw or bolt with the same thread pattern as the float switch steam and us it to tap out the hole. then you can screw the float switch directly into the end cap. You also have the ability to fine tune the level of the switch because you can screw it in further or not as much in the end cap.
Also you can run the up the pipe and out the elbow and that will protect the wires from damage.

Hi Sacohen

I've already seen your work with the Walter level pipe. As a matter of fact, I use a similar one since my pipe is too long and because it has so much air in it it is difficult to stay put.

The pics helped me a lot to understand the Walter level stuff. Is there any of the float switch?

Best regards
Rafa

I'll get pictures of the ATO float, but for a long water pipe, I'm going to have the same situation for my SW replacement water.

It's going in a 20 gallon Brute Trash can.

I was thinking of siliconing a drilled out T towards the bottom of the can an run the tube through that.

Hi all

Thats the real thing printed:

It came out nice.

Here are some pictures of the ATO float switch holder.

Slit in elbow to go over sump wall.


Wires running through pipe.


Float switch screwed into cap.

Very very nice!!! Would never have this idea on my own...
Congrats!!!

Thanks. I don't know how it came into my mind.

Your bracket looks great too. Have you put it to work yet?

Not yet.. Did not receive it yet.. As soon as I get, I'll post some pics

I also made one

Tech9

Very nice!!! I am also using a polymorph plastic called plastimake that is great for DIY projects!!

Take a look !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tflFFacoMa8


Rafa

tech9 wrote:I also made one

I know this is an old thread but I need some help with setting up my float switches for ATO. How did you set them up on this bracket??