LDD Drivers, why and how?

[ReEfnWrX]

You should try the 4:2:1:1 spectrum. RB:NW:CB:UV.. Add maybe 1-2 Green/Red for every 2 square feet and then on a separate channel add some Lime LED's to control the spectrum look of your tank....

One of the nicest LED spectrums I have seen in person. He had great coral growth and color as well

[cosmith71]

CB?

[ReEfnWrX]

I took my lenses off as well. I'm digging the look.
--Colin

Unfortunately LED's have a 120º spread without lenses and will provide awful Par ratings without optics..

CB?

Cool Blue. I think that is around 480nm.

[lnevo]

Thought it was Cyan Blue and should be more like 510nm...

You'll get better blending and less disco without lenses. It all depends on the depth of your tank and how high you have the fixture off the water.

I'm digging the idea of wireless drivers.

[ReEfnWrX]

Cool Blue is the same as Blue give or take 5-10 nm.

[cosmith71]

The tank is 24" deep and the LED's are around 6" up. Even with 80 degree optics I couldn't get enough spread to cover the tank and things near the top were burning. I'm hoping the better spread helps make up for the lower PAR.

--Colin

[ReEfnWrX]

How many LED's do you have? and what size tank do you have LXW?

[cosmith71]

64 LED's right now (room for 72). 120G tank, 48x24x24.

--Colin

[ReEfnWrX]

6" is extremely close to the water for LED's. With 80º optics you should be in the 8"-12" range.

Also 60º optics are recommended for 24" or deeper.

Coral burning at the surface is probably due to the LEDs being so close to the water and maybe not enough acclimation?

See how it goes with no lenses but I Bet you will see minimal growth.

[89delta]

I agree with ReEfnWrX on the height. I ran 2x IT2040's (120W) on my 120 on each side of the cross brace that were 11" from the surface. I started out with my max being 50% and every two weeks went up by 5% to acclimate the corals. My Purple and Red Digi, Bubble Gum Monster and Birds of Paradise were doing great under them. Running no lenses on the LEDs won't do you any good for corals unless under 18" of depth. The default 90 degree optics worked fine. Although since I didn't think about putting in a few fans into the hood the drivers crapped out on me due to overheating after 4mths at 100%. Am running T-5s on it now.

[ReEfnWrX]

You should look up my dimming acclimation code makes acclimation seamless

[89delta]

You should look up my dimming acclimation code makes acclimation seamless

Your code works perfect. Am currently running it to re-acclimate my corals in my 29BC to LEDs.

[cosmith71]

New question.

How can I convert my 10V Analog relay box to 5V PWM?

--Colin

[rimai]

You will need to open the relay box, short out some pins and remove some components.

[cosmith71]

You will need to open the relay box, short out some pins and remove some components.

Is it easier to convert an existing PWM box to 5v?

--Colin

[rimai]

Actually, my bad.
If you are using one of the newer relay boxes, you don't need to remove any components. You just need to short out some pins.
Either signal would still be just about the same work if not the same.

[cosmith71]

Actually, my bad.
If you are using one of the newer relay boxes, you don't need to remove any components. You just need to short out some pins.
Either signal would still be just about the same work if not the same.

That's good news. I think I'll just do that until a RANet dimming expansion comes out.

Can you point me to some instructions?

Thanks,

--Colin

[rimai]

Can you check which relay box revision you have?
It will be printed in the pcb.

[cosmith71]

Yep, will be a couple of days before I can dig into it. Stoopid job! Always getting in the way of my leisure time activities.

Will Cat5 network cable carry dimming signals?

--Colin

[rimai]

Yes, for the dimming signals, you are fine with CAT5

[cosmith71]

Can you check which relay box revision you have?
It will be printed in the pcb.

It's 8.1

--Colin

[rimai]

You need to short out the legs of R20 and R22.
Make sure to move the jumpers too, so you get PWM signal. The marking in the board is wrong though.
It should read PWM/Analog instead of Analog/PWM

[cosmith71]

Got it. I'll probably be doing this project this weekend.

Thanks!

--Colin

[cosmith71]

Update!

I've been running these for a few months now.

I have 8 LDD drivers running open-air on top of the canopy. They run hot, but much less than the rated max. I used a Genssi 48V DC 7.3A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply from Amazon. I've had no problems, but the fan is kinda noisy when it switches on.

LED list is as follows (all Cree):

RB x32
Blue x8
UV x10
NW x10

No lenses. Lights 6-8" off the water. I have a Crocea clam on the bottom which is doing great, as well as a ton of LPS at all levels. I have a soccer ball sized green pavona mid level towards the back. Zoas, softies, etc. Everything is doing well. I'm going to load up the acclimation code and try some more SPS.

I used the Rapid LED driver boards. I don't recommend them. They use a spring-loaded connector which doesn't hold the wires very well. I'd much rather have the screw down kind.



Thanks for all the input! I'll try to get a FTS after the lights come on.

--Colin

[cosmith71]

Full tank shot.



--Colin

[lnevo]

Looks great man!

[pandimus]

Update!

I've been running these for a few months now.

I have 8 LDD drivers running open-air on top of the canopy. They run hot, but much less than the rated max. I used a Genssi 48V DC 7.3A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply from Amazon. I've had no problems, but the fan is kinda noisy when it switches on.

LED list is as follows (all Cree):

RB x32
Blue x8
UV x10
NW x10

No lenses. Lights 6-8" off the water. I have a Crocea clam on the bottom which is doing great, as well as a ton of LPS at all levels. I have a soccer ball sized green pavona mid level towards the back. Zoas, softies, etc. Everything is doing well. I'm going to load up the acclimation code and try some more SPS.

I used the Rapid LED driver boards. I don't recommend them. They use a spring-loaded connector which doesn't hold the wires very well. I'd much rather have the screw down kind.



Thanks for all the input! I'll try to get a FTS after the lights come on.

--Colin

I did this to quiet down my power supply

[cosmith71]

Lee: Thanks!

Pandimus: You replaced the built-in fan? There's a thought.

--Colin

[pandimus]

Lee: Thanks!

Pandimus: You replaced the built-in fan? There's a thought.

--Colin

Yep, it plugged right in and considering its a bigger fan it spins slower and creates more air...just a bit more bulky