aquastyle online diy led's

[Sebyte]

They do work as that is what I am using

[symon_say]

Thanks I'll get 2.

[Treamaya]

Sebyte, your OHM's law is spot on. Voltage is the same across each branch of a parallel circuit, with the amount current going down each path is determined by the resistance of that path.

[Sebyte]

I know it was a long time ago for me, but I did not think OHMS law had changed

I know this is going off subject.

But, LED's were first came to market as a practical electronic component in 1962, the year I started collage. They were not introduced to us, like the humble transistor, into our course work until my third year. Until then we were still working with Vacuum Tubes (valves), for NOR and NAND logic circuits. The space required for a simple device was BIG!

Now today we have such integration that we can have a very small and powerful device, like the Reef Angel, performing tasks that would have required a computer the size of a small house back then. It is amazing how far electronics has gone in such a short span in time, thanks to people like Roberto who have a vision and put it into practice.

[Treamaya]

My apologies for being slightly off topic here. I am thinking of ordering an Aquatsyle LED kit for my 72 bowfront. However the website is being blocked by my Malwarebytes antivirus software. Any ideas? THis is the first website is has full out blocked me from.

[Sebyte]

I have no idea. http://www.aquastyleonline.com/ always works ok for me. I access it from my iPad as well as PC running window 7 , Nortons Internet Security and two malware apps. As far as I am concerned the site is safe.

Just had a thought, maybe your malware is set up to block anything coming from China? I have come across software that has block on some of the eastern European countries because they are a large source for phishing sites.

Only you can decide if you want to turn your protection off.

BTW, I have no connection with Aquastyle, I have just found them a good source for parts.

[abhi_123]

Inspired by steve i am also planning to go for them. will be having the same 56 led fixture for my tank controlled via 2 meanwell LPF Drivers as steve is using.

My doubt is that should we need separate relay port for white & blue leds or we can run two drivers with single port? will be using pwm signals for dimming via expansion module.

[Sebyte]

You can run several drivers on a port.

But you do not even need to run the drivers through a port

Use this, instead of the PWMSlope() function, I use PWMParabola()

Code: Select all

CODE: SELECT ALL
PWMParabola(9,0,21,0,15,75,0);

Parabola starts at 9:00am, ends at 9:00pm.
Instensity grows from 15 to 75 and back down to 15.
Returns 0 when not within the time schedule.

The 0 at the end of the function forces the Driver to switch off. With Meanwell drivers they go into a hibernation state consuming very low power. My understanding is that Meanwell recommend not turning the drivers off as they respond better from that state when the command signel is ramped up.

[abhi_123]

Thanks Steve for the Info.

Btw wat is the main difference between a Slope & Parabola?

If i opt for slope mode is it not possible with LPF Range of Drivers?

[Sebyte]

You can use either with the LPF drivers, in fact with any driver that can take a PWM or Analog signal.

The difference is that PWMSlope() function gives a liner % increase until it gets to max %, then a linear decrease back to start %.

PMWParabola() gives a Parabola or Bell curve over the duration that the lights are on. This is closer to the way that the sun moves across the sky, and gives a more realistic effect.

[rufessor]

One thing... wiring in parallel can lead to blown LED's if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge... I think.... didn't wire mine this way I went with series for this reason (but I am not an electrical engineer nor a designer of constant voltage (more or less) drivers... so I could be wrong, but look into this and decide for yourself.

[symon_say]

I'm not an expert, but if you're not running your led's to 100% they might take the surge without problem, but if you have then at maximum capacity you're in trouble.

Like everything in life is better to have some extra power just in case, i don't go over 70% with my leds, that might extend their life and give some space for a little improvement if needed.

[Sebyte]

if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge...

Then you put a surge fuse in each leg.

[abhi_123]

Has anyone tried BJB Solderless led connector with bridgelux leds provided by Aquastyleonline?

I actually mailed their owner but havn't received any response yet.

[dedvalson]

if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge...

Then you put a surge fuse in each leg.

Unfortunately the LED usually protects the fuse by blowing first

[Sebyte]

Depends on what type off fuse you chose and the milliampere rating. There are quite a range of fuses designed to give close protection on this type of circuit and usage.

[J_C]

I run 28 LEDs per one MeanWell LPF-60D-48.

I'm thinking about my options about going to LED and I'm trying to recreate your setup. Your drivers state that the max wattage is 60w, yet you run 28x3w LEDs on each driver. My math isn't perfect, but that's 84w per driver. Is there some parallel calculation I'm not doing? Also their 48 LED kit comes with the MeanWell LPF-60D-48, is there an obvious benefit (besides the extra light from 8 more LEDs) from the 8 extra LEDs you added? Was there a reason behind the 56, or was it personal preference? Is there any pics available from your build?

Thanks in advance

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

[Sebyte]

Your drivers state that the max wattage is 60w, yet you run 28x3w LEDs on each driver. My math isn't perfect, but that's 84w per driver. Is there some parallel calculation I'm not doing?

I am afraid it is not just 28x3, you need to read up on OHMS law and working out current flow in series parallel circuits. It is too large a subject to cover it here, sorry.

I calculated that I needed 56 LEDs as I was retrofitting my Red Sea Max 250 hood, and I decided that 28 white and 28 Royal Blue was right for me.

Sorry I did not take any pics during the build. The drivers fitted into the space the old ballasts were in, and the heat sinks had to fit the space where tubes had been. As the RSM is a closed lid system, I was able to use the built in fans to cool the heat sinks.

I am happy with the colour, but may add some additional colours later as I have space on the heat sink.

Building any electronic system needs resurch first, and there is normaly many ways to achieve the same ends. I am not saying that my way of going about building a LED system is the only way, or that it is the correct way. It is just one approach

[astralmind]

Wow, that's some extremely intresting info there!

I'm about to replace my 6 T5HO bulbs (roughly 200$) and never really considered LEDs because of the absurde pricing but this could be a viable option.

I've got very little DIY knowledge but it seems like a simple enough process (no soldering involved?).

On a 90g tank, 4' long and 20'' deep, how many LEDs would you recommend? Mainly LPS altough potential for a few SPS down the road. Tend to prefer a bluer tint.

If anyone who's got knowledge could help me out in choosing what I need that would be immensly appreciated.

As a 2nd piece to this, I have the original RA with rather limited memory and no PWM modules/boost. Would I be ok mem wise ? What other accessories would I need?

Thanks so much!

[abhi_123]

If you are looking for a solderless option than go for DIY Led Strip kit available at their store. For 4 feet tank go for atleast 72 Leds.

[mvwise]

Sebyte, you mentioned earlier in the thread:

In your other post you say that you have : 2 x Meanwell ELN-60-48p. I went for the LPF version as they don't have the internal pot and are self adjusting, also they work with analogue and PWM. For the extra $10 I thought they were a better choice.

I am currently running two of the ELN-60-48D with 14 LED's on each for a RSM130D, but have been contemplating the same as yours for a new build I am making on another tank. If I read your post correctly, I do not need to adjust the current down from 1000 mA to 800 ma using the internal pot as I did on the ELN model?

Essentially, if wiring LED's in a series then is would be simply a matter of plugging in and turning on, am I correct? No muss no fuss?

[Sebyte]

Correct, the LPF drivers do not have an internal pot, and are self adjusting.

LPF 60 D

Features :
Universal AC input / Full range (up to 305VAC)
Built-in active PFC function
High efficiency up to 90%
Protections: Short circuit / Over current / Over voltage / Over temperature Cooling by free air convection
Fully isolated plastic case
Fully encapsulated with IP67 level (Note.6)
Class power unit, no FG
Class 2 power unit
Built-in 3 in 1 dimming function (1~10Vdc or PWM signal or resistance) Suitable for LED lighting and moving sign applications
Compliance to worldwide safety regulations for lighting
Suitable for dry / damp / wet locations
3 years warranty

[mvwise]

I spoke with my original supplier about these drivers. He said that they run a constant current of 1.25A and that you needed to be careful not to blow the LEDs.

I'm using Cree LEDs with a maximum current rating of 1000mA. So running in series all would be exposed to 1.25A unless limited by the dimming port.

If run in parallel then you would reduce the load to 625mA which would be okay but I don't have the quantity of LEDs to run in parallel.

Does this make sense? Not sure how to test this out without connecting the LEDs and risk blowing them.


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[Sebyte]

All you can do is calculate your load and select the driver accordingly. I went for the maximum number of LEDs that I could use per driver while keeping within spec of the driver, and the space on the heat sink.

That is why I used the combination of series and parralell circuits. But you do need to understand OHMS law and how to calculate the load across the circuit. There are a number of websites that give help on this. I think I did mention one site in a previous post that will do the calculations for you.

I will repeate for all readers, that there are many ways to build LED systems. My approach was my choice only, and may not be suitable for all system builds.

I am reluctant to give specific advise on circuit designs as like any DIY project there is no guarantee it will work untill it does, if you see what I mean

[abhi_123]

My leds are blinking like mad. I am using lpf series drivers with 24 leds in a parallel stings of 12 leds.i am using pwm Module for dimming dont understand why they are blinking

[rimai]

My leds are blinking like mad. I am using lpf series drivers with 24 leds in a parallel stings of 12 leds.i am using pwm Module for dimming dont understand why they are blinking

http://forum.reefangel.com/viewtopic.php?p=10406#p10406

[00Warpig00]

Waiting for my RA+ to arrive and sunrise/sunset has been a big goal of mine from the start. I too have a 72 LED aquastyle kit and went with the cheap Maxwellen drivers because I was not able to find a driver at the time that would dim to less than 10%. Decided i would replace them later when I got a controller. Well it's that time... From reading this thread it seems as if the LPF series go down to 3%. I would be ok with that I think but am a little confused about what you state about the LPF drivers going into standby mode to shut them completely off to 0% I realize there will be a gap from 3% to 0% but the spec sheet of the LPF series seems to contradict what you are saying is happening real world.

I went with the MeanWell LPF series because they have a self sensing circuit that detects if a Pot is connected or an external analog or PWM signal. In addition the MeanWell LPF series will turn the LED's dim to 3% and at 0% go into a standby mode, like a TV, and do not really need to use up valuable RA ports.

You can run several drivers on a port.

But you do not even need to run the drivers through a port

Instensity grows from 15 to 75 and back down to 15.
Returns 0 when not within the time schedule.

The 0 at the end of the function forces the Driver to switch off. With Meanwell drivers they go into a hibernation state consuming very low power. My understanding is that Meanwell recommend not turning the drivers off as they respond better from that state when the command signel is ramped up.

These LPF drivers sound great but the spec sheets for the LPF series say that to turn the LED's off you will need to wire a relay. (Bottom of page 4 of both documents)

http://www.meanwell.com/search/LPF-60D/LPF-60D-spec.pdf
http://www.meanwell.com/search/LPF-90D/LPF-90D-spec.pdf

Just so I understand fully before I buy LPF drivers...

Are you saying that you can use PWM to turn your Drivers/LED's all the way off and essentially do NOT have to plug your drivers into power outlets on the relay box? I hope so this is what I want to do.

Also I was hoping to leave one of my strings of Bridgelux Royal Blues dimmed to 3% and have this string function as my moonlights. So essentially I would use the Parabola code but shut 3 of my 4 strings of LED's off to 0% and leave one set on at 3% for moonlights.

Am I crazy and not understanding something in this thread? It sounds like what I want to accomplish is workable with the LPF series drivers according to your experience, but not according to the spec sheet.

Any more insight you can provide would be great.

Thanks,

Nick

[Sebyte]

In my experience,

Once the driver reaches (approx)3% the LEDs stop emitting light. At 0% the driver appears to go into a standby mode, although there is still a supply voltage to the driver.

If you want to remove the supply to the driver when the LEDs are not emitting light, then you would need to use a relay port on the RA.

As for the spec sheet, it is technically correct. My understanding of how an LED works is that once the supply voltage reaches the threshold value the LED starts to emmit light, and when the voltage goes below that value the LED stops emitting light. At that point there is still a voltage being applied to the circuit. To fully turn off the LED circuit you would need to fully remove the supply to the driver.

In practice, once the LEDs have stopped emitting light, you can think of the setup as being like a TV in the standby mode.

Hope that makes sense

[mliew]

Hi Steve,

I was hoping to get your advise. I just ordered from Aquastyle the 14 LEDs Dimmable Kit which consists of

14 x LEDs (Mix of White, Red, Royal Blue and Actinic)
2 x Meanwell LPF-16D-24
2 x Potientometer
and other parts

Can you please suggest which Reef Angel Plus Controller should I get
0-10V PWM Signal?
0-10V Analog Signal?

Based on my understanding I do not need the potientometers if I wire the dimming leads to any of the Dimming output (daylight or actinic) of the RA Relay Box. Is that correct?

I am a complete noob in this but I am really keen to purchase the RA and learn to code.

Cheers,
mliew

[Sebyte]

Just took a look at their site and they say "Built-in 3 in 1 dimming function (1~10Vdc or PWM signal or resistance)" Which means that the driver will work with both Analog as well as PWM.

So on that basis it should be ok with either RA controler.

The choice is yours