aquastyle online diy led's

[rimai]

I'm starting to feel that something inside the drivers is keeping that last 500mV applied on the dimming input of your driver.
The module does output 0V, or close to 0V as you measured 80mV when the leads are removed.
Your idea of shorting the Dim+ would work. I don't see anything that would cause problems. In theory, when you dim it to 0%, the output is supposed be GND level, so you should be shorting GND level to GND level.

[00Warpig00]

I'm starting to feel that something inside the drivers is keeping that last 500mV applied on the dimming input of your driver.
The module does output 0V, or close to 0V as you measured 80mV when the leads are removed.
Your idea of shorting the Dim+ would work. I don't see anything that would cause problems. In theory, when you dim it to 0%, the output is supposed be GND level, so you should be shorting GND level to GND level.

I totally agree with you and yes I read ~80mv on the Dimming module port when the driver is disconnected. and ~500mv on the dimming mod port when the driver is connected. It appears as if the ~500mv is what is keeping the LED's lit and I agree it appears to be being generated by the drivers themselves which I'm not sure makes sense. Both drivers behave exactly the same way while hooked up to any of my PWM/Analog options on the RA+ or it's accessories, I even decided to try the analog ports on my analog relay box today with very similar results. If anything the analog relay box ports provide the lowest light output setting. It dims my Royal blues to the point where they have just the slightest bit of flicker/pulsing in them like the circuit is about to collapse and go into the power saving mode and shut the LED's off but just cant quite get there. I didn't measure the voltage on the that port though, but I suspect it is slightly lower than 500mv.

I wanted a full sunrise/sunset setup with the RB's on very dim for a few hours as moonlighting each night before complete dark for a few hours too. I knew there would be a chance that wouldn't happen due to drivers alone. So this is my next best option. Since it seems you agree it should not cause an issue on my dimming mod, I think my next step is to put a small jumper across the dim leads for my next test to eliminate that stray ~500mv across my dimmer leads and verify that shuts my LED's off completely. I'm sure it will do the trick but I didn't want to proceed without your opinion. If that works I will have accomplished my secondary goal but at a cost of two ports to control relays on my dimming module. I'm not sure I had plans for all of them anyway. I need to go back to my big plan and take another look but I'm probably good to go if shunting the 500mv does the trick. I will report back.

Also need to get my ATO up and operational in the next 6 days going on a trip for a few days and need the topoff working asap. lots to do.

Nick

[00Warpig00]

Looks like I will have enough dimming ports. Big plan calls for three LED Drivers. 10000K Whites, Royal Blues, and Fuge LED's so even if I need to pull the same relay trick on the fuge LED's I should be good to go. Now to wait until my light sched gets all the way down to 0% at 11pm tonight to jump those dimming wires for my next test.

Nick

[najluni15]

I am planning a build for my 120 gallon reef (48x24x24). I plan on running meanwell drivers, but am unsure on which ones I can use and with how many LEDs. I will have all the drivers connected to two PWM channels. Here is a list of what I want to run
8 x 3-up Luxeon Rebels Royal Blue
6 x 3-up Luxeon Rebels Natural White 5K
6 x 3-up Luxeon Rebels DR/CB/Cy
3 x 3-up True Violet

Is it possible to get all of this onto two drivers? 1 for Blue and Violet, 1 for White and Exotics?
Or would it be better to get three drivers? I would like to use the meanwell LPF series as I understand they can dim down to 3% and have an automatic sleep mode once below 3% so I dont need to waste a Reef Angel power socket.

Thanks!

[Sebyte]

You can certainly split this on to the two PWM channels.

Each channel should be able to take the load of two LPF drivers, If I remember right they can run up to a max of 800 mA , but Roberto can give you the exact figure.

With the LPF drivers just make sure you have a balanced circuit and keep an even number of each type of LEDs in a string or leg if you are running series parallel circuits.

[Dr777]

If you ever had experience with Cree Leds do you think those are as good?

[Sebyte]

Cree are high quality LEDs but expensive.

[Sacohen]

I'm planning on building a 72 LED package too, but I'm customizing the lights to be more full spectrum.
I'm leaning towards the LPF drivers too for the same reason Steve did.
I'm going to have 6 dimmable channels for customization to all area's of the lighting.

There will be 2 fixtures, one over each side of the tank laid out like this...

RB C V B 10 G 65 B 10 V C RB

P UV R B RB UV RB P B R UV P

RB G V 65 B C 10 B 65 V G RB