Now that my RA is in transit..

Basic / Standard Reef Angel hardware

Posts: 160
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Golden, CO
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:22 pm
I have a few questions. 8-)

1. Where do you guys get these banners that have your parameters on them? Are they live?

2. I don't really plan on using the ATO floats more then warnings. I plan on having one float in the sump to act as a water level low alert. Can I use the second port to input a water sensor switch that will let me know if water is on the floor. These are the switches I already have.
http://www.home-securitystore.com/p-48-2800-water-sensor-switch.aspx

Link was disabled by the request of the website owner. He did not want us to link to his website.If you wish to go to their page, you can copy and paste the link and change home-securitystore to homesecuritystore
They work with the breakout box on the aqua controller so I assume it is the same type of signal the float switches use. I don't want to burn up the controller. If I can use these can I run a few in parallel?

3. I have a few aqua controller expansion sockets that I have been using on my RK2 controller. Simply to remove the 1000w halide load off the relay box. Should I keep using these?

4. I might want to run an orp probe and an additional ph probe. Is there plans to add extra probe connections in the future?

5. I had asked in another thread if I could add a flow meter and you stated it would take something that outputs a pulse. What if I just want to determine if the pump is on. Could I use a pressure switch like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Activated-E ... 27c0c397a7
I would run an air tube up to the switch from one of the manifold outputs on my return. This would cause the air to pressurize and trigger the switch in the same manner the tunze and avast ATO operate.

6. I assume the only input for the RA are the float switch inputs. If I use one for a float switch and the other for some water switches in parallel I am out of inputs for a pressure switch to determine if the return is on. Could I make a little circuit that activates 1 input if its the float switch, the other input if its a water switch, and both if its the pressure switch? Is it possible to add a third channel with a simple circuit like this and have the RA assign these to alarms or actions? Is it possible to add even more channels by having the circuit pulse the inputs at different rates? Example would be a 4 channel break out box that outputs a pulse every .25s for ch 1, .50s for ch2, .75s for ch3, 1.0s for ch4, 1.25s for ch1 + ch2, ect ect...

I will probably come up with many more questions and will just add them to this thread instead of new ones :) Excited to get this controller!

Thanks for your time,
Mark

edit: crap just realized I forgot to order the piezo buzzer...
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Posts: 2870
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:20 pm
Location: Illinois
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 5:59 am
1. web banners, check this thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=80
they are live to a certain degree. depends on how frequent you have it updated. i think the default is like every 3 minutes but it can be changed if desired.

curt

Posts: 12876
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:47 pm
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:02 am
2. I couldn't quite understand on the drawing of the sensor you are using. Does it come with the relay mentioned on the drawing? If it does, then it would work just fine. It would be just like a float switch.
http://download.homesecuritystore.com/d ... nstall.pdf

3. 1000W would max out the relay box of the RA system.

4. ORP and pH expansion modules are being worked on.

5. I think the solution provided here is much better as you would have actual flow rate instead of just is there flow or not.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=462

6. You can do that or I can sell you an I/O Expansion module. Very few of these were ever produced. They look just like the PWM Expansion module, except there are 6 I/O Ports instead of 6 PWM Ports.
You can add several of these I/O expansion modules as your needs increase.
Roberto.

Posts: 160
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Golden, CO
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:44 pm
1. That is pretty pimp. I see an android live wallpaper or widget in the future!

2. No, it is just the sensor. The diagram is for installing the switch on a system that does not supply voltage. If there is a +5v-24v dc on the break out box it works by just connecting. If the break out box does not supply that voltage you have to put a small relay inline to supply it with the needed voltage. The water switch is normally open so when it gets wet it completes the circuit and activates the relay.

3. Cool I figured it would be a good idea to continue using the relay boxes.

4. Very nice

5. I saw that after I posted this thread. If these turn out to be SW safe I am all in for it. Hall effect sensors work by picking up magnets whizzing by. On the wiki it says fiber nylon is what is in contact with the water. This should be fine for our use. I will probably get a couple and open one up. If it doesn't want to open easy I'll hit it with a hammer just to make sure :). How many of these do you think we could get to work on the RA at a time? I would love to get one on each reactor, frag tank, and nem tank to confirm they are getting flow. That is a total of 6. Feasible? How do they connect to the RA? PWM?

6. I am going to need 2 of those expansion modules :) for water switches and other things that go bump in the night.

Thanks for the replies! This is great stuff :ugeek:
Image

Posts: 12876
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:47 pm
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:04 am
How many wires does the water detector sensor have? I'm still confused on how they work.
Let us know how those flow sensors work out. Each will need one input. So if you use 6 of these, you will need 6 inputs.
Roberto.

Posts: 160
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Golden, CO
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:26 am
It's just two wires. When water touches the two contacts it closes the switch and let's voltage flow. Not sure how it works internally but when connected in series with a relays coil the relay won't see voltage unless the connection is bridged by water or some other conductive material. I assume the internal circuit uses so little if anything the coil won't see enough current to activate.

I think they have a 4 wire version with the relay built in.

Does it use the standard expansion module on the site for the extra connections for the flow switches?
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Posts: 12876
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:47 pm
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:44 am
It says that it needs 5V to operate, so it can't be just on/off switch like a float switch where it does not need any voltage and simply has a open/close contact.
I'm still confused and not sure how this would play out and be hooked up to RA.
I'll try to find some more time to research on how these actually function internally.
Roberto.

Posts: 160
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Golden, CO
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:33 pm
I did some digging and went through some of my electronics books along with some google and although I didn't really come to any exact circuit diagrams it looks as if it uses some transistors and a high impedance internal circuit. This allows it to essentially flow no current until the bridge is made and it pulls low closing the circuit allowing current to flow.

Since the RA breakout doesn't have any voltage maybe this sensor would be more optimal http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-1049 ... ensor.aspx

It is a 4 wire 12v sensor. It essentially has the relay built in that the diagram for the other sensor shows.
Two wires are used for power and the other two open a circuit. Its normally closed until it gets wet.
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Posts: 12876
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:47 pm
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:51 pm
Yes, I'm sure this is is better choice. It will work just like the float switch with just a contact. You will need a 12VDC wall wart though.
Roberto.

Posts: 160
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:50 pm
Location: Golden, CO
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:34 pm
Cool I will order a few and try it out.
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