aquastyle online diy led's

[stevenhman]

Ah, well... I already have ordered the drivers otherwise I would have no problem going with your advice. I hadn't even heard of the LPF series.

[symon_say]

Anyone have try to control the maxwellen drivers that come with this kit to??

[Sebyte]

When I was planning my LED system I looked around for info on the maxwellen drivers, there seems to be very little.

What I did pick up was that compared to the MeanWell's they are noise and run hot. Also the are not UL (Underwriter) certified, for what that is worth!

The reason I did not go with them was that they can only be controlled by a variable resistor (potentiometer), because their control circuit produces the voltage as opposed to the MeanWell drivers that require either an external voltage of PWM signal, so were not compatible as far as I was concerned with the Reef Angel. (unless someone has got them to work, if so please post how)

Also they cannot be turned down to 0% and require a relay to turn them fully off.

I went with the MeanWell LPF series because they have a self sensing circuit that detects if a Pot is connected or an external analog or PWM signal. In addition the MeanWell LPF series will turn the LED's dim to 3% and at 0% go into a standby mode, like a TV, and do not really need to use up valuable RA ports.

IMHO the cost saving does not out weigh the benefits of the MeanWell drivers.

[symon_say]

For the cost is much, cause the kit came with the maxwellen, and i need 6 meanwell drivers for my leds, and that's in the case i don't add any more.

I know i'll change drivers later for meanwell or something easily dimmable and better quality, but when you're setting a tank from 0, the cost off all the thing needed is a lot.

I have spend a lot of money and still need a lot more, the beauty of the hobby, but i'm really happy for now, i have a friend how build his drivers and have a lot of features and things you can do, maybe later i try that cause the cost is less than the meanwell.

[Sebyte]

For the cost is much, cause the kit came with the maxwellen, and i need 6 meanwell drivers for my leds, and that's in the case i don't add any more.

If you need six meanwell drivers how many LEDs are you using per driver?

If you are just stringing the LEDs in series you are not getting the best from the unit. You will find that by using strings of series LEDs in parallel you can run more per driver. I am running 28 LEDs per driver, two strings of 14 series LEDs then the two strings in parallel

[symon_say]

I have 72 LEDs, isn't that suppose to be tricky, wiring LEDs in parallel? Now i'm interested in what you're gonna tell me about this.

[Sebyte]

First, I did not buy a kit, I ordered my components individually. That is why I bought Meanwells.

Using LED's in a series parallel configuration is not tricky. Here is a circuit to show what I mean by series parralel.

LED circuit.jpg (12.66 KiB) Viewed 9746 times

This is showing 30 LEDs on one driver. The number of LEDs used depends on the driver you are using. To understand more about LED circuits, and more, look at http://led.linear1.org/

They also have a Wizard to work out circuits for you http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

If you are going to have 72 LEDs, I think you mean that you will have 36 white and 36 blue.

I run 28 LEDs per one MeanWell LPF-60D-48. You may need to use the MeanWell LPF-90D-48 I am not sure.

Email Ray at support@aquastyleonline.com, and tell him exactly what you want to do and he will let you know how many LEDs you can use this way on a driver. They also send a circuit diagram with your order.

[Blawson]

Doesn't running parallel reduce the performance of each led?

[Sebyte]

My understanding is that wiring in series divides the total power supply between the LEDs. Wiring them in parallel means that each LED will receive the total voltage that the power supply is outputting.

If all LEDs were wired in Parallel on a fixed voltage, then there may well be a lower performance than if wired in series.

However we are talking about using Constant Current Drivers. If you connect strings of series wired LEDs in Parallel, then each string is supplied with the total voltage output of the driver (if it is a dimming driver then at the % of the total it is set at) and the individual LED's in each string divide the total voltage applied. As the Meanwell drivers deliver a constant current to the circuit, the driver adjusts the output voltage accordingly to maintain the current as the resistance of the circuit does not change. Unless I have OHMS law skewed

There are many references to using this type of circuit and it is a general practice in commercial built systems from what I understand. One such reference is http://reefledlights.com/wiring-diagrams/

I must confess it is a long time since I studied electronics (LEDs had not even been invented, nor had Integrated Circuits) and I am no expert on LED lighting, just an experimenter, if I have my theory wrong I stand to be corrected

[symon_say]

I talk to Ray, and he thinks that the RA cannot control the LPF drivers, but if it was not an error from you, you're using the LPF series with RA, right??

[Sebyte]

They do work as that is what I am using

[symon_say]

Thanks I'll get 2.

[Treamaya]

Sebyte, your OHM's law is spot on. Voltage is the same across each branch of a parallel circuit, with the amount current going down each path is determined by the resistance of that path.

[Sebyte]

I know it was a long time ago for me, but I did not think OHMS law had changed

I know this is going off subject.

But, LED's were first came to market as a practical electronic component in 1962, the year I started collage. They were not introduced to us, like the humble transistor, into our course work until my third year. Until then we were still working with Vacuum Tubes (valves), for NOR and NAND logic circuits. The space required for a simple device was BIG!

Now today we have such integration that we can have a very small and powerful device, like the Reef Angel, performing tasks that would have required a computer the size of a small house back then. It is amazing how far electronics has gone in such a short span in time, thanks to people like Roberto who have a vision and put it into practice.

[Treamaya]

My apologies for being slightly off topic here. I am thinking of ordering an Aquatsyle LED kit for my 72 bowfront. However the website is being blocked by my Malwarebytes antivirus software. Any ideas? THis is the first website is has full out blocked me from.

[Sebyte]

I have no idea. http://www.aquastyleonline.com/ always works ok for me. I access it from my iPad as well as PC running window 7 , Nortons Internet Security and two malware apps. As far as I am concerned the site is safe.

Just had a thought, maybe your malware is set up to block anything coming from China? I have come across software that has block on some of the eastern European countries because they are a large source for phishing sites.

Only you can decide if you want to turn your protection off.

BTW, I have no connection with Aquastyle, I have just found them a good source for parts.

[abhi_123]

Inspired by steve i am also planning to go for them. will be having the same 56 led fixture for my tank controlled via 2 meanwell LPF Drivers as steve is using.

My doubt is that should we need separate relay port for white & blue leds or we can run two drivers with single port? will be using pwm signals for dimming via expansion module.

[Sebyte]

You can run several drivers on a port.

But you do not even need to run the drivers through a port

Use this, instead of the PWMSlope() function, I use PWMParabola()

Code: Select all

CODE: SELECT ALL
PWMParabola(9,0,21,0,15,75,0);

Parabola starts at 9:00am, ends at 9:00pm.
Instensity grows from 15 to 75 and back down to 15.
Returns 0 when not within the time schedule.

The 0 at the end of the function forces the Driver to switch off. With Meanwell drivers they go into a hibernation state consuming very low power. My understanding is that Meanwell recommend not turning the drivers off as they respond better from that state when the command signel is ramped up.

[abhi_123]

Thanks Steve for the Info.

Btw wat is the main difference between a Slope & Parabola?

If i opt for slope mode is it not possible with LPF Range of Drivers?

[Sebyte]

You can use either with the LPF drivers, in fact with any driver that can take a PWM or Analog signal.

The difference is that PWMSlope() function gives a liner % increase until it gets to max %, then a linear decrease back to start %.

PMWParabola() gives a Parabola or Bell curve over the duration that the lights are on. This is closer to the way that the sun moves across the sky, and gives a more realistic effect.

[rufessor]

One thing... wiring in parallel can lead to blown LED's if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge... I think.... didn't wire mine this way I went with series for this reason (but I am not an electrical engineer nor a designer of constant voltage (more or less) drivers... so I could be wrong, but look into this and decide for yourself.

[symon_say]

I'm not an expert, but if you're not running your led's to 100% they might take the surge without problem, but if you have then at maximum capacity you're in trouble.

Like everything in life is better to have some extra power just in case, i don't go over 70% with my leds, that might extend their life and give some space for a little improvement if needed.

[Sebyte]

if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge...

Then you put a surge fuse in each leg.

[abhi_123]

Has anyone tried BJB Solderless led connector with bridgelux leds provided by Aquastyleonline?

I actually mailed their owner but havn't received any response yet.

[dedvalson]

if you loose a single LED in one of the strings as that can behave as an open circuit so the other two parallel strings will suffer from a current surge...

Then you put a surge fuse in each leg.

Unfortunately the LED usually protects the fuse by blowing first

[Sebyte]

Depends on what type off fuse you chose and the milliampere rating. There are quite a range of fuses designed to give close protection on this type of circuit and usage.

[J_C]

I run 28 LEDs per one MeanWell LPF-60D-48.

I'm thinking about my options about going to LED and I'm trying to recreate your setup. Your drivers state that the max wattage is 60w, yet you run 28x3w LEDs on each driver. My math isn't perfect, but that's 84w per driver. Is there some parallel calculation I'm not doing? Also their 48 LED kit comes with the MeanWell LPF-60D-48, is there an obvious benefit (besides the extra light from 8 more LEDs) from the 8 extra LEDs you added? Was there a reason behind the 56, or was it personal preference? Is there any pics available from your build?

Thanks in advance

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

[Sebyte]

Your drivers state that the max wattage is 60w, yet you run 28x3w LEDs on each driver. My math isn't perfect, but that's 84w per driver. Is there some parallel calculation I'm not doing?

I am afraid it is not just 28x3, you need to read up on OHMS law and working out current flow in series parallel circuits. It is too large a subject to cover it here, sorry.

I calculated that I needed 56 LEDs as I was retrofitting my Red Sea Max 250 hood, and I decided that 28 white and 28 Royal Blue was right for me.

Sorry I did not take any pics during the build. The drivers fitted into the space the old ballasts were in, and the heat sinks had to fit the space where tubes had been. As the RSM is a closed lid system, I was able to use the built in fans to cool the heat sinks.

I am happy with the colour, but may add some additional colours later as I have space on the heat sink.

Building any electronic system needs resurch first, and there is normaly many ways to achieve the same ends. I am not saying that my way of going about building a LED system is the only way, or that it is the correct way. It is just one approach

[astralmind]

Wow, that's some extremely intresting info there!

I'm about to replace my 6 T5HO bulbs (roughly 200$) and never really considered LEDs because of the absurde pricing but this could be a viable option.

I've got very little DIY knowledge but it seems like a simple enough process (no soldering involved?).

On a 90g tank, 4' long and 20'' deep, how many LEDs would you recommend? Mainly LPS altough potential for a few SPS down the road. Tend to prefer a bluer tint.

If anyone who's got knowledge could help me out in choosing what I need that would be immensly appreciated.

As a 2nd piece to this, I have the original RA with rather limited memory and no PWM modules/boost. Would I be ok mem wise ? What other accessories would I need?

Thanks so much!

[abhi_123]

If you are looking for a solderless option than go for DIY Led Strip kit available at their store. For 4 feet tank go for atleast 72 Leds.