Code for DC return pump

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:04 pm

Looks like a leak somewhere.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:06 pm

I put silicone around the orange part and the coupling, but it didn't fix it. Other than the coupling that I glued on, where else could the leak be?

lnevo · Post by **lnevo** » Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:15 pm

Use pvc glue

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Thu Feb 19, 2015 4:29 pm

Ok I finally hooked up my pump to the RA and now it won't run. I have it plugged into the right dimming port and it doesn't do anything. I did notice that the light on the power supply for the pump flashes when its hooked up to the RA but when I use the stock controller it stays a steady light. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 4:41 am

Still having issues with my water level sensor for my ato and also now my one for the overflow. I caked on PVC cement on the fittings for both tubes. Only thing left is the tubing itself. I wouldn't think that would be the issue. What could it be?

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:12 am

The light on the power supply shouldn't blink.
Does this new pump have the same connector? I'm not so sure anyone has used this pump yet. You are the first one I know of that is using the new pumps.
I wonder if they changed anything. Do you also have their WP powerheads?

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:16 pm

It has the same connector that the jebao cable I bought off this site has. I used to have their wp powerheads on my old tank. Now I have the RW-4 but I'm using the stock controller with that.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:27 pm

Can you see if you can control the RW?

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:44 pm

It does.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 2:03 pm

Humm.
So, they must have changed something to those pumps then.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 2:10 pm

Would you have any idea what it might be?

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 2:35 pm

I just commented. They must have changed the pinout.
If you can control the other pump, we eliminated any issue with the controller or the cable. So, it can only be the pump.
Noone has used that pump yet. So you are the first one reporting that it can't be controlled.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 3:04 pm

Do you know the pinout for the old jebao dc pumps?

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 3:40 pm

Here it is.

Jebao.png

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 5:10 pm

Ok, I opened up the stock controller box and saw that the three wires coming from the connector are brown, blue and yellow with green stripe. Blue was labeled U, Grn/Yel was labeled V, and brown was labeled W. I buzzed out the pins and looking at the male pins, the blue was just right of the key then grn/yel, and finally brown, which would be left of the key. I buzzed out the RA cable and the blue and brown pins are the opposite of the stock ones.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 6:39 pm

Ahh. There ya go.
Thanks a lot for the info!!!!

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 6:51 pm

I thought I was on to something but I just opened the controller for my RW-4 and it's the same way as the DCT 6000.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:25 pm

Ok I decided to go back through all three and have another look. I wanted to see what colors where attached to + and - of all three. In the RA cable the blue is tied with the 24V+ and brown is tied with 24V-. In the RW-4 controller blue is tied with 24V- and brown is tied with 24V+. Even though the dct controller has the same pin layout as the RW-4, the blue and brown were not tied directly to 24V + and -. I don't know if this means anything or is helpful, just thought I would share.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:30 am

One more thing. I wanted to check the voltage on both controllers going out to the pump. The RW-4 was 24V from blue to brown and it fluctuated from 2-5V between blue to green. I tried checking this on the DCT-6000 but I couldn't get any voltage between any color so I decided to check frequency. From brown to green and brown to blue it showed 290 Hz. From Blue to green it was 4.2 kHz.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:26 am

Wow. So, definitely different.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:33 am

Do you think there is any hope of controlling these?

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:38 am

I would need to get my hands on that controller to find out what they did.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:42 am

Thought this was kind of interesting.

http://digital-reefs.com/?p=9004

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:45 am

There ya go. It explains it all. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like it will be possible.

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:04 am

I guess it's what I get for being an early adopter.

lnevo · Post by **lnevo** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:27 am

Sounds like it can do PWM if you can get in the controller and figure out where to connect

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 12:28 pm

Wish I could figure that out.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 1:03 pm

Can you take a high res photo and email to me? info@reefangel.com

Ismaclst · Post by **Ismaclst** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 1:58 pm

Sent.

rimai · Post by **rimai** » Sat Feb 21, 2015 3:36 pm

Yeah, I can't make nothing out of it, but it is definitely just like what the other blog mentioned.
The driving circuit is in the controller now. The maxspect gyre pumps are the same thing.

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Code for DC return pump

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