Reef Angel Forum

Looks like a leak somewhere.

I put silicone around the orange part and the coupling, but it didn't fix it. Other than the coupling that I glued on, where else could the leak be?

Use pvc glue

Ok I finally hooked up my pump to the RA and now it won't run. I have it plugged into the right dimming port and it doesn't do anything. I did notice that the light on the power supply for the pump flashes when its hooked up to the RA but when I use the stock controller it stays a steady light. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Still having issues with my water level sensor for my ato and also now my one for the overflow. I caked on PVC cement on the fittings for both tubes. Only thing left is the tubing itself. I wouldn't think that would be the issue. What could it be?

The light on the power supply shouldn't blink.
Does this new pump have the same connector? I'm not so sure anyone has used this pump yet. You are the first one I know of that is using the new pumps.
I wonder if they changed anything. Do you also have their WP powerheads?

It has the same connector that the jebao cable I bought off this site has. I used to have their wp powerheads on my old tank. Now I have the RW-4 but I'm using the stock controller with that.

Can you see if you can control the RW?

It does.

Humm.
So, they must have changed something to those pumps then.

Would you have any idea what it might be?

I just commented. They must have changed the pinout.
If you can control the other pump, we eliminated any issue with the controller or the cable. So, it can only be the pump.
Noone has used that pump yet. So you are the first one reporting that it can't be controlled.

Do you know the pinout for the old jebao dc pumps?

Here it is.

Ok, I opened up the stock controller box and saw that the three wires coming from the connector are brown, blue and yellow with green stripe. Blue was labeled U, Grn/Yel was labeled V, and brown was labeled W. I buzzed out the pins and looking at the male pins, the blue was just right of the key then grn/yel, and finally brown, which would be left of the key. I buzzed out the RA cable and the blue and brown pins are the opposite of the stock ones.

Ahh. There ya go.
Thanks a lot for the info!!!!

I thought I was on to something but I just opened the controller for my RW-4 and it's the same way as the DCT 6000.

Ok I decided to go back through all three and have another look. I wanted to see what colors where attached to + and - of all three. In the RA cable the blue is tied with the 24V+ and brown is tied with 24V-. In the RW-4 controller blue is tied with 24V- and brown is tied with 24V+. Even though the dct controller has the same pin layout as the RW-4, the blue and brown were not tied directly to 24V + and -. I don't know if this means anything or is helpful, just thought I would share.

One more thing. I wanted to check the voltage on both controllers going out to the pump. The RW-4 was 24V from blue to brown and it fluctuated from 2-5V between blue to green. I tried checking this on the DCT-6000 but I couldn't get any voltage between any color so I decided to check frequency. From brown to green and brown to blue it showed 290 Hz. From Blue to green it was 4.2 kHz.

Wow. So, definitely different.

Do you think there is any hope of controlling these?

I would need to get my hands on that controller to find out what they did.

Thought this was kind of interesting.

http://digital-reefs.com/?p=9004

There ya go. It explains it all. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like it will be possible.

I guess it's what I get for being an early adopter.

Sounds like it can do PWM if you can get in the controller and figure out where to connect

Wish I could figure that out.

Can you take a high res photo and email to me? info@reefangel.com

Sent.

Yeah, I can't make nothing out of it, but it is definitely just like what the other blog mentioned.
The driving circuit is in the controller now. The maxspect gyre pumps are the same thing.