Reef Angel Forum

Makes me wonder why they didn't use the eagle files posted here and have a PCB board made up. Or for about the same money as we'd spend on parts we can buy a control wire setup here.

This is outstanding! Thanks!

Jorge Ramalho wrote:Fatman, you are perfectly right. I thought the JP1 connector from the schematic posted by Sacohen was a jumper. Too fast analysis by myself. Thank you for your explanation. It got perfectly clear. Thank you!!

Not bad for a Fatman.

You have four inputs and three outputs. The inputs are 24 VCD, Ground DC (these both come from the power supply) and data 10 VDC and data ground. The data ground and power supply ground are joined on the board. The three outputs are data or control, 24 VDC and ground. Not sure where you're seeing a ...

Good for you.

I'm a bit in the same boat with three or four new ones we bought and then change routing on in the middle of the project. I find I can move them on the local club forum when someone has one go out on them. The go, it just takes me 18 months to sell them.

OOPS, sorry Steve, I didn't mean to hijack the thread. But at least the comments bumped it to the top.

Mine was my LEDs with Meanwell ELN 60-48P drivers. None of the cords was touching the tank, the outlet was not going through the relay box, just the driver signal from my PWM port on the relay box. Unplugged it and it went away. I have since moved it to a dimming expansion model, but haven't had tim...

Sacohen wrote:Will the Gerber files help you.
I found them in the Reef Central thread.

https://code.google.com/p/meanwell-ldd- ... loads/list

They won't, but the site is worth exploring to see if I can find the Eagle files.

Thanks!

I finally got my dimming expansion module connected last night. Controlling the lights is much better, I have a mixture of PWM and analog drivers so the feature to change the output in the module was great for me. Both tanks are running off of it and I'm all smiles. Hooked up the Jebao powerheads an...

It's not that difficult, I can do it! There is a socket package that you can use under the LDD drivers that allow you to change them easily. I just need to find the Eagle files for the 4 up board with pull down resistors. I have the cam files, but my vendor doesn't use them and I can't figure out ho...

I have the same drivers you have and when I unplug them the voltage in the tank drops to zero. I'm going to try moving them and if that doesn't work I'll convert over to LDD drivers.

Let us know what you find out. I think some of us are in about the same boat as you. I went from a 90 gpd membrane to a 75 and bought a new flow restrictor to compensate. Since then I am using lots of resin to get pure water.

Fat

Good thought. Mine will not fit backwards though. BRS loves me at $13 a packet for DI resin.

That's what I'd check at this point, ^.

Same deal with mine, low TDS at the RO stage with the spectrapure 90 gallon setup. Changed out everything and got high TDS and burned up my resin. I need to test my waste to permeate ratio soon and fix that.

I had the same issue so I put one in the tank and one in my hand to raise the temp. Once I figured out which was #1 I put that one in my tank.

Fat

I bought a BNC to BNC and it worked great. I also hacked the cable on one and used some stranded wire and it worked ok too. Not what I'd recommend but it got me by.

I've had my RA for a few years with little issue. However, I moved a few months ago and my temp probe no longer works. Only error shows on display for temp and nothing shows via portal. Everything else works ok. I tried scraping the connections to no avail. Suggestions? Do these ever go bad? Thanks...

While stray voltage does affect the probe, if it's reading 3.7 no matter what you do it's time to replace it. I'm mine was rock solid, dead accurate for about 10 months and I'm reading 3.62 in the tank, sump, or outside the tank in a cup of tank water. New one should be here tomorrow.

Scott, I sent you a PM with my phone. Give me a call and we can work out the WiFi thing.

Fat

Yeah, I am fat on both forums. Still having trouble? I'll get you a PM and we can work it out on the phone or something.

Fat

My local fish shop has it. I think most do. Use the 7.01 and 10 pH. I recalibrated mine a few days ago, pretty simple task.

Quick question, finally hooked up my led's today to the dimmer. What would cause the lights to blink on and off? They're blinking at about a 1 second interval. The driver is a no-name Chinese 100w driving two 100w led's. The pre-installed pot manually dimmed them fine. Thanks! The pot that is insta...

I hear that Reef Angel will be at the Mountain West Reef Fest in Salt Lake City, UT on November 2, 2013. Any truth to that rumor?

Fatman

Android phone, android tablet, mac computer, windows computer, linux computer and an iPhone 5 for my son. Yes, I'm confused every time I boot something up.

Let me know if I can help.

What firmware version are you running on the Wifi module? Had the same problem until I updated to the latest version.

Yeah, mine is bad too. I gave up on it. Need to get a new one and start fresh.

Does anyone know if these LDD drivers offer deep diming or basically being able to dim the light output to zero. Instead of the 50 to 100% that the ELN drivers seem to do. I haven't tried them, but I have been told by people that do use them that they will go right down to zero so you can dim below...

If you're sure that it's not the code try putting a pot in series, set the controller on to 80% so you have the LEDs on a high output then adjust the pot up and down. This will let you know if it's in the fixture or not. Have you load tested the current and what VDC and I (amps) are you getting out ...

Having a static IP assigned to the RA helped my connectivity a great deal. There is also a thread about adjusting the refresh rate and that helped too.