rimai wrote:YAY!!!
Cool...
I was reading somewhere that their modules are 3.3VDC operational with 5VDC I/O tolerance.
Hmm,
Was that info direct from Wiznet? Just curious because eliminating the level shifter and inputting the 5V TTL directly into the first 105SR is what i *believe* wigged it out, unless I accidentally shorted something while moving things around without noticing i shorted something.
I am actually hesitant to try the 110SR since it has an "RS232" serial port on it. Im not sure if it's using a "max232" type of technology or whether it's going to throw huge >5V serial signals out on the TX line and fry my RA and i dont have a scope to give me a warm fuzzy feeling. So i am a bit hesitant. trying to not be so quick to just "hook stuff up" I still need to read a bit more in the Wiznet 110SR manual but the two boards both look nearly identical. I am thinking that the 110SR doesnt shoot out any signals higher than 5V due to the fact that the whole board is powered with a 5V supply and there only seems to be a 5V supply feeding directly to a regulator, so I am guessing it doesnt have a source greater than 5V anywhere on the board to start throwing around >5V signals to start. Still need to read more, just havent had time yet today.
Wired up the Wiznet 110SR over the weekend. Powered by the Reefangel very nicely but there is no communication getting through. i have not really dug into it, but I'm guessing it is due to it being RS232 port vs a TTL port as Roberto suggested to me earlier when I suggested the idea to him. No connection at all with the portal and nothing but SAX parser errors with the Android app. I cant even get the RA webserver page to display on my browser. Would be awesome to get this working, as it is the perfect physical Ethernet\Power\Serial package for a VERY easy drop in, but it may take more modification to the device than it would take to use the Wiznet 105SR which isn't quite as nice on the physical aspect (no power jack\regulator\serial jack) Maybe this week I will sniff it's output and see if it is even attempting to communicate serially.
BTW Wiznet 105SR and Level shifter still going strong. I woke up in the morning to a continually rebooting controller (white blank screen flashing & error LED flashing) to which pulling the VGA cable from the controller did not resolve, I needed to pull the USB cable from the relay box going to the expansion hub. As soon as I pulled the USB the controller started working again. This leads me to believe something attached to the Hub was the cause and not the Wiznet Mod, but i will keep an eye on it. As far as remote connectivity all is well so far.
Nick,
I've had similar symptoms with my controller screen/led blinking and I have traced it to at least 3 specific problems:
1. RF module USB connection (Since you have Koralias, I doubt this is your issue). Whenever the small USB port isn't completely secure into the RF Module, I get the issue.
2. Temp Probe connectors. Sometimes when I close my cabinet door, the wires will catch on something and tug them just a bit. Not enough to pull them out, but enough to pull the connector slightly up/sideways which loosens the connection. I'm guessing this just causes erratic temp readings which the controller doesn't like?
3. USB connection from main relay box into the relay expansion module. (I believe this is what you thought the issue was for you.) When I mounted my relay expansion module under my cabinet, I used the sticky tape to attach it. Well, occasionally, the tape would just fall off the cabinet wood and the module would hang down a few inches. My wiring was held secure in place about 1' on either side of the module, so the weight of the module hanging/dropping must have loosened the USB connector wire. The VGA connector is screwed in so that wasn't an issue.
With #1 and #3 above, I could instantly stop the blinking issue by unplugging the power to my 10-port usb expansion hub (which all of these modules were connected to the controller thru.) I could also stop the blinking if I secured both of those connections too, so it isn't the hub itself... although cutting power to it does remove them from the controller and there is no error detected at that point and the RA works normally.
I ended up mounting my relay expansion module better and I also secured the wiring on either side of it right next to the connection... so that gave it better strength on the mount too. I also moved my RF module to a spot where opening/closing the cabinet door doesn't pull on that connection as much now either. Now I only (rarely) have the blinking problem caused by the temp probe wires. I'm in the middle of making my stand for a bigger tank so I didn't bother finding a fix for the temp probe wires.
From all these quirky things that caused the blinking issue on my RA, I decided to build a side cabinet with a section specifically made to house all my RA equipment. Not only will this eliminate the problem of moving wires with opening doors, but it will also get them away from any moisture that could damage them.
Anyway, hope that helps you troubleshoot the blinking screen/led problem.
PS, good work on the ethernet connection. I'm sure many people will benefit from it.
ALMOST ALL of my USB connections that connect a device to my expansion hub are EXTREMELY LOOSE on the Mini-B end of the USB cable and have been since day 1. These USB cables that came with my RA are the most horrid quality USB cables I have ever seen in my life. I have had at least two cables with wires pop off of them and nearly ALL of them are loose enough where the mini-b end connects into the individual modules that they fall out if you even go near them much less touch them. I have been meaning to replace them but figured maybe since I really don't touch my controller or modules at all and all my modules are screwed to wood through the screw holes that maybe the connections were good while connected but just pop out easy. I think I will hit monoprice.com and order a handfull of new USB cables and replace them all just to be sure. Thanks for the tip.
