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[bece13]

Hello everyone.

From the start I would apologize for my English as it is my second language.

I’m want to convert my current 110gal (60”L x 25”W x 18”H) tank to a frag tank and setup a new 220gal (67”L x 30”W x 25”H) as a display tank. I would like to have both tanks automated as much as possible. I’m working on compiling a full list of my goals. From the beginning I know I want DIY LED lights and RA+ controllers for both tanks (they will be to far away from each other to use 1 RA+)

My plan is to start with the DIY LED lights and the RA+ for frag tank see how it works and learn from this setup when I move the display tank.

So far I was doing quite some research and come up with the following:
1. DIY LED lights:
- Meanwell drivers - type LPF based on number of LEDs
- 72-96 Bridgelux LED – working on ratio/channels – suggestions are welcome
- PWM dimmable
2. RA+ , wifi, etc. – to be decided which modules I need before ordering

My first questions are:
1. If I get 2 relay boxes does it mean I will have 4 PWM channels?
2. Can the LPF drivers be plugged in external (home) outlets and have the PWM connected to the relay box?
3. Are 72-96 LEDs enough for 60”L x 24”W x 12-13”H column of water (I have 4”-5” DSB)
4. What ratio would you use (Royal Blue, Blue, 10K white, 65k white)? Is it worth incorporating Green/Red/Cyan/UV/Violet LEDs ?
5. Can I use some of the blues as moonlights?
6. Is it possible to plug the RA+ and one relay box into an UPS and the second relay box in a home outlet? – I’m trying to have only critical systems running in case of a blackout. (don’t need lights in case of blackout)


Everyone is welcome to come up with good or bad ideas. ☺

I should mention that I finished the university in electronics (21years ago – did not practice much but comfortable) and currently I’m software developer (Powerbuilder) and have no problems with DIY stuff.

Thank you in advance for the help I’m going to get,
Marius

[lnevo]

Hello everyone.

From the start I would apologize for my English as it is my second language.

I’m want to convert my current 110gal (60”L x 25”W x 18”H) tank to a frag tank and setup a new 220gal (67”L x 30”W x 25”H) as a display tank. I would like to have both tanks automated as much as possible. I’m working on compiling a full list of my goals. From the beginning I know I want DIY LED lights and RA+ controllers for both tanks (they will be to far away from each other to use 1 RA+)

My plan is to start with the DIY LED lights and the RA+ for frag tank see how it works and learn from this setup when I move the display tank.

So far I was doing quite some research and come up with the following:
1. DIY LED lights:
- Meanwell drivers - type LPF based on number of LEDs
- 72-96 Bridgelux LED – working on ratio/channels – suggestions are welcome
- PWM dimmable
2. RA+ , wifi, etc. – to be decided which modules I need before ordering

My first questions are:
1. If I get 2 relay boxes does it mean I will have 4 PWM channels?
2. Can the LPF drivers be plugged in external (home) outlets and have the PWM connected to the relay box?
3. Are 72-96 LEDs enough for 60”L x 24”W x 12-13”H column of water (I have 4”-5” DSB)
4. What ratio would you use (Royal Blue, Blue, 10K white, 65k white)? Is it worth incorporating Green/Red/Cyan/UV/Violet LEDs ?
5. Can I use some of the blues as moonlights?
6. Is it possible to plug the RA+ and one relay box into an UPS and the second relay box in a home outlet? – I’m trying to have only critical systems running in case of a blackout. (don’t need lights in case of blackout)


Everyone is welcome to come up with good or bad ideas. ☺

I should mention that I finished the university in electronics (21years ago – did not practice much but comfortable) and currently I’m software developer (Powerbuilder) and have no problems with DIY stuff.

Thank you in advance for the help I’m going to get,
Marius

Sounds like a great plan so far!

To answer some of your questions

1) only the pwm ports on the primary relay box are active. So you would only have 2 without the expansion

2) not sure about the lpf specifically but i believe other drivers do shutdown at 0% so you should be able to

3) theres a great full spectrum led thread on nano-reef.com and a calculator that has great guidelines for number of leds based on depth and size. I would think your range is ok, especially on a frag tank which usually isn't deep and doesn't need a lot of penetration

4) see the threads above. My one-day future led plan consists of 2:1 neutral white/royal blue plus uv and ocw (ocean coral white - cyan / red / blue) . My current plan is for 28 royal blue, 14 neutral white, 14 UV and 7 OCW. This is for a 65g (36x18x24). It's a but overkill but would be future upgrade proof.

5) in my grand plan, i have 6 drivers for each color so, if you did something like that you could use the blues as a moonlight. The royal blues might be too bright to use. Worst case you can apply a factor to your dimming percent to account

6) yes! I'm doing the same thing right now. Not only can you separate critical/ non-critical things on the different relay boxes, but you can code some actions of the expansion one is lost. I have both plugged into my ups but the expansion is on the surge only. If i lose access to the expansion, i shut down everything but my return pump. Others are setting a timer before shutting things down as well in case of brown-outs.

Good luck with your plans and plenty of people to help you out!

[bece13]

Thanks lnevo.

I would go with the dimming module. This means 6 PWM channels + 2 PWM channels from the relay box to a total of 8 or just 6?
I think Steve (Sebyte) said somewhere that if you plug the driver into an external outlet and dimm it by RA+ , it will go into a standby like mode (which is better then if you turn them off). If this is true, are there going to be any problems if the power goes off and comes back on? Did I misread that statement?

Any chance you have a link for your responses to 3) and 4) Are you going with CREE or Bridgelux? (I read about pros and cons of both). I'm still debating... Might go with Bridgelux for the frag tank as it is not as deep and they are cheaper and with CREE for the big display tank. Hmmmm... still researching...

My shopping list so far:
RA+
wifi
dimming module

[lnevo]

Thanks lnevo.

I would go with the dimming module. This means 6 PWM channels + 2 PWM channels from the relay box to a total of 8 or just 6?
I think Steve (Sbyte) said somewhere that if you plug the driver into an external outlet and dimm it by RA+ , it will go into a standby like mode (which is better then if you turn them off). If this is true, are there going to be any problems if the power goes off and comes back on? Did I misread that statement?

Any chance you have a link for your responses to 3) and 4) Are you going with CREE or Bridgelux? (I read about pros and cons of both). I'm still debating... Might go with Bridgelux for the frag tank as it is not as deep and they are cheaper and with CREE for the big display tank. Hmmmm... still researching...

My shopping list so far:
RA+
wifi
dimming module

You would get 8 total pwm ports with the module.

If you search for full spectrum led on nano-reef.com there are a couple of great threads...

I'm probably going to be a mix of phillips and cree as I may go with solderless diodes. The differences are a bit outside my knowledge base at the moment

Currently i use standard on / off for my lights so i can only tell what Ive read, which is you should be fine if they go into standby. Im sure others will chime in. Shouldnt be an issue with power off/ on as long as ra still tells it to be 0%

[bece13]

After doing more research I'm kind of going towards using the Phillips LEDs (Steve's LED).
Does anybody know if I can put 6 of Steve's LED drivers on 1 channel?

Marius

[rimai]

Each channel can output 40mA.
I know you can do 6 meanwells, but I don't have any info on the Steve's drivers.
I'm pretty sure they don't draw that much, but just to be sure, ask the manufacturer.

[bece13]

For those interested in using Steve's LED drivers:
I sent an email asking them how much current they draw for PWM and here is the answer I got:

"Reef Angel dimming module puts out 40mA per channel. Can I run 6 of your drivers on 1 channel? How many mA takes your driver for PWM?
Response:
It takes about 1-4 mA per driver. 6 should be just fine on one channel."

[bece13]

Finally I’m done designing the LED lights for my Frag tank (110gal) and ordered all the components. For my Display tank I’m going to refine and order everything after I try the first LED lights.

Now I’m on my second task: trying to figure out what I need to fully control my tank.

So here is the list:
Frag tank:
1. LED lights – plugged in an external outlet (or future 2nd relay box) and digital PWM by RA diming module CH1-CH5 for LEDs and CH6 for 2 PWM fans (Arctic F12 PWM).
2. 2 Power heads – relay box outlet 1 and 2
Sump:
1. Main pump – relay box outlet 3
2. Skimmer – relay box outlet 4
3. Dosing pump Calcium – relay box outlet 5
4. Dosing pump Alkalinity – relay box outlet 6
5. ATO pump – relay box outlet 7
6. 1 Power head refugium – relay box outlet 8
7. Pump for carbon – external outlet or future 2nd relay box
8. LED lights – plugged in an external outlet (or future 2nd relay box) and digital PWM by RA diming module CH7 from relay box for LEDs and CH8 from relay box for 2 PWM fans (Arctic F12 PWM).

Based on the above I figured that I need the following:

1. Reef Angel Plus Controller with digital PWM
• Head Unit (32K memory)
• Relay Box
• HDDB15 Communication Cable
• PH Probe
• Waterproof Temperature Probe
• 2x Float Switch
• 2x Float Switch Connectors
• USB-TTL converter cable
• USB Power cable

2. Wifi Attachment
3. Dimming Expansion Module digital PWM
4. Expansion Hub

Questions:
1. Do I need the Expansion Hub at this point?
2. Am I missing anything?
3. Any recommandations?

After I learn how to program and use the RA I will order a second RA for my Display tank(220gal – is too far away to use only 1 RA)

Cheers,
Marius

[lnevo]

The wifi plugs into the "serial" port on the RA. You won't need the expansion hub yet based on the list you gave. How about heater control?...one of the big gains of using a controller is backup for your heater thermostat.

Otherwise sounds like you should be good to go.

[lnevo]

Also for those power heads, you will want them on port 5 and 6 instead of your dosing pumps if you plan on using the wave maker functions.

[bece13]

Thanks lnevo,

Completely forgot about the heater. I will either get a second relay box or take out the power head from refugium.
I will move the power heads. (I have to start reading the manual )

Do I need the expansion hub if I get a second relay box? (excuse my ignorance for know)
Are there any benefits if I plug the LED lights on the second relay box instead of external outlets?

By the way, I went with the Phillips Luxeon ES LEDs and drivers from Steve's Leds. For the power supply I went with a PFC power supply from Jameco.

[lnevo]

Yes. The relay expansion uses a port so if you had that and the dimming module you would need two ports and would need the expansion hub. I highly recommend the water level expansion if wanted to make the hub worthwhile.

[lnevo]

Also curious why you didn't go with Steve's for the power supply also.

Lee

[bece13]

Yes, I was thinking about the water level expansion, I like it, but is more money. I might do it later.

Steve's power supply did not have PFC (power factor correction) - I asked them.
And after reading this: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ... 521&page=5
I decided I should go with a power supply that has PFC.

[bece13]

Update: My RA+ and the other stuff is in mail. Hardly waiting to get it. WooHoo!

[bece13]

Hermosaglq. What kind of character set are you using? I cannot see any of your postings. Not even on the other topics.

[dbmet]

It's the Spam character set.

[bece13]

Update.
Last night I got my RA+.
Thanks Roberto.
I set it up and everything looks excellent so far. Wifi working fine. Only problem is I don't know how I forgot to order the second and third temperature probes.
Now, I'm trying to figure out how to do my own code. (reading and reading and reading....)
Are you guys still using RA generator or just the Wizard?
Is it possible to see which outlets are on/off and to turn them on/off from the android app?

[dbmet]

Use the Wizard and yes you can turn ports on and off from the iPhone and Android Apps. Have fun!!!

[bece13]

I finally setup the minimum functions for my RA (will enhance later), Android app working and Portal working. Happy camper so far.

Next step is to build the LED lights. I got all the major components and I started with the sump lights first to see how it goes. Will post a picture when I'm done.

Are there any flat Temp probes that I can attach to the Heatsink for LED? I want to controll the fans(PWM) on the lights based on the temp of the heatsink.

[rimai]

Sorry... no

[lnevo]

Drill a hole in the heatsink. Insert probe. Secure with a dab of silicone

[bece13]

Yep, I might do that.

Also, is there a way to have a 4th temp sensor? (1-water, 2-heatsink temp display lights, 3-heatsink temp sump lights, 4-room temp)

[rimai]

There is, but our libraries are setup for 3 right now.
If you want 4, you will need to change it.
You will also need to splice the temperature probe leads together.

[lnevo]

The probes have unique serial numbers...i think roberto mentioned on another thread that more could be used but they would have to be spliced in, and you'd have to add the code to access them. I'll wait for roberto to reply, but it may be doable...

[bece13]

Thank you guys. Looks like to much headache. I guess I can leave without it, at least for now.
I'll keep you updated on my progress with the LED lights.