Reef Angel Forum

That's what I was afraid of.

I'm thinking I could put the drivers on top of the canopy to protect them from moisture and then only have to run the two power wires up. Then figure something out to be able to disconnect the fixtures.

--Colin

cosmith71 wrote:I suppose it would involve much less wire to have them in the canopy, although I worry about moisture damage.

Put your drivers in a waterproof enclosure. With my BC29 it was easy since it had the acrylic cover for the lights in place already.

I think I'm going to create a wireless dimmable LED driver

rimai wrote:I think I'm going to create a wireless dimmable LED driver

You shouldn't tease.

89delta wrote:

cosmith71 wrote:I suppose it would involve much less wire to have them in the canopy, although I worry about moisture damage.

Put your drivers in a waterproof enclosure. With my BC29 it was easy since it had the acrylic cover for the lights in place already.

That's a thought. I need to check out Home Depot and see what's available.

I'm also considering just mounting them on top of the canopy. It's almost 7 foot tall so they wouldn't show. I could then just run wires through the top to the fixtures.

Decisions, decisions.

--Colin

Radio shack has an 8*6*4 enclosure for under $10. If you seal the edges n screw holes with a little silicone it'd be water tight. But you'd still want airflow to the drivers to keep them cool. A thought though is you could cut out a hole in the enclosure to mount a heatsink on top and thermal paste the drivers to the heatsink.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk

cosmith71 wrote:You shouldn't tease.

Not teasing
I'm placing the order for the pcbs tomorrow!!!
All I need now is a few strings of LEDs to test it
I'll see if I can dig something.

I have extras from RapidLED I can send if you need some. I just swapped out my cool whites for warm whites.

And details, please.

--Colin

cosmith71 wrote:I just swapped out my cool whites for warm whites.
--Colin

Warm whites are dangerous.... too much algae loving spectrum... You should switch to Neutral Whites...

ReEfnWrX wrote:

cosmith71 wrote:I just swapped out my cool whites for warm whites.
--Colin

Warm whites are dangerous.... too much algae loving spectrum... You should switch to Neutral Whites...

Sorry, I meant neutral whites. I had cool white + red + green and now just the neutral whites, royal blues, and violet. I took my lenses off as well. I'm digging the look.

At any rate, I have a bunch of cool whites just sitting around.

--Colin

You should try the 4:2:1:1 spectrum. RB:NW:CB:UV.. Add maybe 1-2 Green/Red for every 2 square feet and then on a separate channel add some Lime LED's to control the spectrum look of your tank....

One of the nicest LED spectrums I have seen in person. He had great coral growth and color as well

CB?

cosmith71 wrote:I took my lenses off as well. I'm digging the look.
--Colin

Unfortunately LED's have a 120º spread without lenses and will provide awful Par ratings without optics..

cosmith71 wrote:CB?

Cool Blue. I think that is around 480nm.

Thought it was Cyan Blue and should be more like 510nm...

You'll get better blending and less disco without lenses. It all depends on the depth of your tank and how high you have the fixture off the water.

I'm digging the idea of wireless drivers.

Cool Blue is the same as Blue give or take 5-10 nm.

The tank is 24" deep and the LED's are around 6" up. Even with 80 degree optics I couldn't get enough spread to cover the tank and things near the top were burning. I'm hoping the better spread helps make up for the lower PAR.

--Colin

How many LED's do you have? and what size tank do you have LXW?

64 LED's right now (room for 72). 120G tank, 48x24x24.

--Colin

6" is extremely close to the water for LED's. With 80º optics you should be in the 8"-12" range.

Also 60º optics are recommended for 24" or deeper.

Coral burning at the surface is probably due to the LEDs being so close to the water and maybe not enough acclimation?

See how it goes with no lenses but I Bet you will see minimal growth.

I agree with ReEfnWrX on the height. I ran 2x IT2040's (120W) on my 120 on each side of the cross brace that were 11" from the surface. I started out with my max being 50% and every two weeks went up by 5% to acclimate the corals. My Purple and Red Digi, Bubble Gum Monster and Birds of Paradise were doing great under them. Running no lenses on the LEDs won't do you any good for corals unless under 18" of depth. The default 90 degree optics worked fine. Although since I didn't think about putting in a few fans into the hood the drivers crapped out on me due to overheating after 4mths at 100%. Am running T-5s on it now.

You should look up my dimming acclimation code makes acclimation seamless

ReEfnWrX wrote:You should look up my dimming acclimation code makes acclimation seamless

Your code works perfect. Am currently running it to re-acclimate my corals in my 29BC to LEDs.

New question.

How can I convert my 10V Analog relay box to 5V PWM?

--Colin

You will need to open the relay box, short out some pins and remove some components.

rimai wrote:You will need to open the relay box, short out some pins and remove some components.

Is it easier to convert an existing PWM box to 5v?

--Colin

Actually, my bad.
If you are using one of the newer relay boxes, you don't need to remove any components. You just need to short out some pins.
Either signal would still be just about the same work if not the same.

rimai wrote:Actually, my bad.
If you are using one of the newer relay boxes, you don't need to remove any components. You just need to short out some pins.
Either signal would still be just about the same work if not the same.

That's good news. I think I'll just do that until a RANet dimming expansion comes out.

Can you point me to some instructions?

Thanks,

--Colin

Can you check which relay box revision you have?
It will be printed in the pcb.

Yep, will be a couple of days before I can dig into it. Stoopid job! Always getting in the way of my leisure time activities.

Will Cat5 network cable carry dimming signals?

--Colin

Yes, for the dimming signals, you are fine with CAT5