Reef Angel Forum

Setting up my LED fixture - and I have some questions about testing and balancing my parallel strings.

LED's : 48 3w 6,5k Bridgelux LED's - 24 per driver in 2 parallel strings of 12
Drivers: 2 x Meanwell ELN-60-48p

I'm using these threads to help me figure out wiring (and how to do it all properly)
http://marine-engineers.org/2012/03/11/ ... -parallel/
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ... ?t=1973462

In the 1st thread (and the 2nd one I believe) - once all the LED's are wired and checked, the internal pot is turned all the way down, they use an external pot in testing.

Can I skip the external pot and just use the RA's PWM slope set at 100% to slowly crank up the internal driver pot until I get the mA I am looking to get? (I think 650mA is the max I can get on each string)

I am also going to use 700 mA quick blow fuses as well as a 5w 1% resistor.

Thanks!

That should work as you will be using the maximum output voltage from the drive at the given 100% setting from RA. JUst make sure you measure the current accurately.

Thanks for the reply - if you have the time to check out the first thread I listed, if I follow his directions will I be alright? (in measuring accurately - I have a different multimeter than he does so I'll probably be posting more questions with pictures about what setting is what in a few weeks)

Just had a look at the first link you mentioned. It is an excelent article and if you follow it you should be ok. Series-parallel circuits do save money on extra drivers if you are using a lot of LEDs.

One thing I would comment on is that it is better to tin the stars before you glue them to the heat sink. In his video he had to heat the pad for 20 seconds before applying the solder. This is because the heat sink is drawing away the heat. If you tin them first you only need to heat the pad for about 2 seconds, and I belive that you stand less od a risk in damaging the LED. Just a point.

Good luck with your build.