I receive my RA last Thursday and was told that it came with the analog built in the relay box ,well anyway today I got it all set up and running except my LED with Meanwell 48D having problem with sunrise/sunset,
my setting is 10%-60% in 60min and the same on sunset ,this afternoon when my leds turn on it's kinda bright at 10% so I test PWM wire with a volt meter and it show at 0.98V so it seems right and the display showing 10% and is ramping up slowly. I then test the Meanwell mA and it showing 720mA (that is 72%),
So I upload new INO at 100% and adjust the driver to 1000mA but then when I adjust the PWM down to 20% it's reading at 540mA. I voltage coming from PWM wire is correct but it's not dimming to the right mA.
I work perfect with the Potentiometer. I've been messing with it all day with no answer.Did I got the right relay box? This is the last thing to fix so I can enjoy my RA , This is one of the hardest reef gadget to learn but I'm getting there
This may all ready be solved... but since no one answered.
Sorry edited first response...
seems like you have set the internal POTs to output correct max mA and volts... and if output is correct on controller 0-10V from 0-100% then I am guessing your probably running PWM output to a analog driver or something like that, nothing else makes sense. Did you figure this out?
Well it's not been solve ,Roberto send me the the PWM to analog wire to test to test it out 2 weeks ago, when I hook it to the dimming wire the voltage drop ,seem like the analog wire weaken the signal.If I hook it straight (PWM to meanwell) the signal is strong with no voltage drop but my meanwell won't dim like it suppose to ,I think the current from the RA relay box are too strong? With my old 10v adapter I can only max my meanwell current to 1200mA but with the PWM output at 1000mA I only need to turn half way on meanwell pot.
Roberto told me to send the relay box to him to check it out but I sold all me old ATO , timer,pH mon, away etc...so 1 week without it is just too much hassle.
Right now I have no clue, The reason I bought the RA is the LED dimming but oh well guess I'm the only one that had this problem.
I use MeanWell LPF-60D-48 which work ok with Reef Angel. The LPF range of drivers will work with analogue, PWM or a veriable resistor pot straight on to the control wires. I belive that there maybe issues with the ELN Range of drivers.
The MeanWell LPF-60D-48 does not have an internal pot and is self adjusting. I have heard people on other forums that have had problems with DIY'ing ELN drivers. Having said that there are a several of topics in this forum showing that a number of RA users are successfully using ELN type drivers.
I use 5 of the ELN XXX-P drivers and get great dimming control from about 9-10% of ouput range to 100% with stable light between those points. On one string I can dim from 0-100% but that uses a different LED (the rest are CREE). Depending on how many you have, I might suggest simply replacing the driver with the "P" versions, as there are more posts with individuals having issues with the "D" versions (but many have them working, at least that is my understanding). This is (if your only running a few) a relatively cheap solution. And, you can likely recoup about 50% of the cost of the D drivers on the used market.
Else, I think were going to need real details. I.E. I don't get the current is not stable (or weak) or something comment. I guess I would either do above, or sit down and measure output DV voltage on the PWM channel out screws from the common to each positive terminal on the PWM control box at say 3-4 settings, 0,25,65,100% or something. Then I guess I would put the meter in line on one of your strings and without changing ANYTHING, set the PWM output to 0,25,65,100% and measure the current running through the string (make sure its a single string and not wired in parallel or your circuitry could be at issue and causing some problems as well) and list these values for us. Perhaps even do the same with the PWM Output leads not the analog. At least we can then look at real numbers without explanation and see if anything makes sense.
Its also worth being SURE you have no ground leaks (my guess is you don't... but still) or intermittent loose connections. Check the conductivity from the exit (say-) lead on one LED to the exit lead on the next LED and see that its good and then check to ground and see that its not... since others seems more or less to have similar set ups running, its likely at this point to be, and I order these based upon how I would order them if I had built this...
A) You did something wrong
B) either the Driver
C) or something on the ReefAngel is bad
REMEMBER< LEDs act as a draw and most meters conductivity testing involves a small current which the LEDs use, so you will not get accurate reads if you try to jump across the entire string, it will act as an open circuit and not show conductivity... so you need to go from star start, but be sure and include the wire between them or its kinda meaningless testing it. )
(in my opinion chance B has similar probability to C as there are random issues that every single piece of hardware are subject to and everything made has a measurable fail rate.. so you might just be unlucky).
Thanks for your help,right now I'm using 2 potentiometer to control my LED dimming and I can live with it.I spend too too much time on this dimming crap that I'm sick of it and I don't wanna touch it anymore, I even bring my led fixture to my friend house where he have RKL to try my LED and it dim fine. Last week I'm soo pissed that I was gonna throw the RA out of the window, I would not go back on that track again.
, This is one of the hardest reef gadget to learn but I'm getting there 
