Has anyone connected an Arctica chiller to the RA? I purchased one this winter and just started using it. There is a few minute delay time from when it senses the temp too high and turns on the chiller. It might be difficult to hack into it for control, but it would be nice to know if it is actively cooling.
Jon
JBJ Arctica Chiller
- jsclownfish
- Posts: 375
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:52 pm
- Location: Saint Louis
Re: JBJ Arctica Chiller
I use an AquaEuroUSA chiller with no problems.
I set the chiller temperature down to 76f, then use the RA to control the relay the chiller is connected to. I have it set to start at 81f and turn off at 80f. The startup delay does not cause a problem as it is around two minuets.
I guess you could do the same for your chiller.
I set the chiller temperature down to 76f, then use the RA to control the relay the chiller is connected to. I have it set to start at 81f and turn off at 80f. The startup delay does not cause a problem as it is around two minuets.
I guess you could do the same for your chiller.
- jsclownfish
- Posts: 375
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:52 pm
- Location: Saint Louis
Re: JBJ Arctica Chiller
Thanks, I'll give that a try. My chiller is way too big for my tank, but I got it cheap on Craigslist. The pump for the chiller is too fast for my overflow, so right now it is plumbed into the sump. I worry that the chiller cycles a bit as the sump cools down faster than the warm water from the tank reaches the sump. If the probe in the tank regulated the chiller, it might be better, even if there is a little residual cold water in the sump to move through the process.
Thanks,
Jon
Thanks,
Jon
Re: JBJ Arctica Chiller
I don't have an external sump. On the RSM 250 the sump is integral built into the rear of the tank.
I have the heater on one relay using the Memory setting for "Heater', and the other relay set as "Fan/Chillier" They are both using T1 as the control.
My settings are: Heater on 78.0 off 79.1, and Chillier on 81.0 and off 79.9.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the right settings and some may say that the 3 degrees between high and low is a bit extreme. But they work for me. My average water temperature is 79.5, the heater very seldom kicks in because of the heat from the pumps, and since installing LED lighting the chillier seldom kicks in, only when the room temperature gets high as the room is south facing and all glass. Even in the winter with the sun out the room gets up to 90+ very quickly.
I think that a bit of fine tuning and you should be ok.
You said
I have the heater on one relay using the Memory setting for "Heater', and the other relay set as "Fan/Chillier" They are both using T1 as the control.
My settings are: Heater on 78.0 off 79.1, and Chillier on 81.0 and off 79.9.
It took a bit of experimenting to get the right settings and some may say that the 3 degrees between high and low is a bit extreme. But they work for me. My average water temperature is 79.5, the heater very seldom kicks in because of the heat from the pumps, and since installing LED lighting the chillier seldom kicks in, only when the room temperature gets high as the room is south facing and all glass. Even in the winter with the sun out the room gets up to 90+ very quickly.
I think that a bit of fine tuning and you should be ok.
You said
Why not put a valve in line and choke off the flow. You cannot damage the pump if the output side is restricted. Or if you are concerned the use a T piece before the valve and let water bled back into the tank.The pump for the chiller is too fast for my overflow